You may also have a slow to start car due to a worn starter, a common issue. The intermittent non starting leads to to a sensor issue.
When she starts and runs, she runs like a charm, afr's are perfect too, but starting is a major issue.
Car struggling to start but runs fine. The starter isn't clicking so it's not that. All injectors(twice now) fuel pump starter(the latest replacement) did a fuel system clean service. Car out of cruise control flutters or runs rough from 45 mph to 55 mph and once over 55 mph runs smooth.
If the car is turning and taking a long time to fire then it's not battery. My car is a six year old suzuki and i have been using the new e10 fuel. I notice from 45 to 55 the rpm guage moves with flutter or rough running engine.
But after sitting overnight, you find you have to crank and crank until the engine fires. Once started and even when it is struggling to start, it throws out alot of white smoke. Just cleaned out the mass sensor last night again.then it starts fine again for about two times afterwards, but the car stood for the night, and this morning first thing tried to start it, cranked over again about 7 times before firing up, let it heat up took it for a drive no problems,went into a shop for about an hour and a half and it struggled to start again, drove to another shop, switched off, 15 mins.
When trying to start it the service light flashed with a message saying check vehicle but went straight out. Once you get it running everything is fine. Cold start problem and vehicle shudder around 2500 to 3500 rpms.
This video is after i'd come back from a drive, did some start up testing on the highway. Anyone have this issue or any idea what it might be. If you have an oil leak and oil gets into that starter it.
I have no warning lights on and car runs perfectly fine once started. Once warmed up it runs perfectly. Yesterday, it took about 10 tries for the car to even start.
I had the same problem, make sure your wires are not exposed and shorting on some piece of metal, that could cause a fire. Either the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft sensor would cause the symptoms you have described. Had to get greenflag out.
After a few moments of panic thinking it had hydraulically locked, plugged the sensor back up and it started fine. When turning the ignition, the car will start but it takes a time to start. I'm running a 700w amp off mine, about to add another 600w amp on top haha!
The only error the engine has shown is unknown error code 4 times however nothing relating to the difficulty of starting up. By recognizing the role of each of these components, you can stop your car from struggling to work. Have taken to 2 different dealerships.
Sometimes a car is hard to start when cold but then runs fine. R33 running rich, rough and struggling to start hi all, new to the site after trying to find answers through existing posts and come up with nothing 1993 r33 rb25det (bought it na and put the rb25det in it) its been sitting for a year before i decided to register it. A qualified technician like the ones at yourmechanic will be able to diagnose this hard to start condition for you.
This morning it wouldn't start so dh checked the battery etc., but couldn't f Bridged the relay and voila, car started right away, the same relay that was clicking was dead. The guy managed to start it and it said on the dash battery low, start engine, once it started it said battery charging?
Runs fine once the car is started. The maf sensor can be the felon in this case, which you can find on the air filter or air tube between the filter and the intake manifold. I press the button and the car tries to turn over but it won't.
Sometimes this issue makes your car hard to start but runs fine once it gets going. It may even start and then quit once or twice. But i don't think its the battery, the car starts fine, doesn't struggle and my sisters car has had a new battery.
This burns down to answering the question of the role of these important installed parts in your car. But as i get past that it will do just fine down the highway. When i was finally about to give up it started.
If that is the case you can try replacing the wires or cleaning the connections. If this is the case it could be that fuel pressure in the injector lines is bleeding back to the fuel tank while the car sits for long periods. The car will start up first time may idle roughly with the needle bouncing for a little while.
It sounds like it's struggling to start. Kevin , uk car mechanic replied 8 months ago I would check the woddruff key on the end of the crank, it has a habbit of breaking which trows the timing all over the place and it will lead to bent valves if left unchecked !
Off to midas to get a relay and put it in, car started and ran fine for a couple of days. Was running somewhat fine mis. Its after the car has started that it seems to struggle.
When it starts and is lumpy running if you try to throttle it try’s to cut out but then picks up after a few 30sec or so and runs fine it’s just first thing in the morning uk auto mechanic: I did substitute the fuel pressure sensor with a pot and wound the sense leg down to a couple of volts while it was running and i got a loud clunk and it stalled. Other than that i would check that starter again, it sounds like it is seized or maybe you have the wires on backwards.
I read possibly a vacuum leak.